The first room features suits. Or, what used to be suits. One jacket, suspended in a vitrine like a rare butterfly, has its shoulder pads exploded outward, stitched with copper wire and fragments of shattered mirror. Another hangs off a hyper-articulated mannequin, its back slashed open to reveal a corset of industrial zip-ties. The placard reads: “Power Dressing for the Apocalypse.” A young collector in a pristine Thom Browne blazer stares at it, mouth slightly agape.
Outside, the Vienna rain begins to fall. And a dozen guests, already wearing Poddelka’s metallic lace or chainmail cuffs, step out into it unbothered. For them, the night has only just begun.
The final gallery is empty except for a single, rotating pedestal. On it stands a mannequin dressed in a dress that appears to be made of frozen, crystallized breath—a bioplastic Poddelka developed with a university lab, which is fogged from within by a cooling element. It’s ephemeral. In an hour, the fog will fade. By tomorrow, the dress will be a different shape.
“The gallery is a cage,” he says softly, almost to himself. “The real show is on the street. On the body. In the way someone feels when they put on my armor and finally feel safe enough to be vulnerable.”
And fight they do. The exhibition is arranged in five “chapters,” each a radical reinterpretation of a wardrobe staple.
Poddelka’s signature—visible in every piece—is the deliberate flaw. A seam that doesn’t meet. A missing button replaced with a bent nail. A pocket sewn shut not with thread, but with a single, crude steel rivet. Critics have called it “post-luxury brutalism.” Poddelka calls it honesty.
The crowd’s favorite. A series of sheer, flesh-colored bodysuits are embroidered not with pearls, but with ball bearings, cotter pins, and tiny brass gears scavenged from a dismantled 1960s Junghans clock. One piece, titled “Panzer” (Tank), is a cropped bolero made entirely of hand-linked, powder-coated chainmail. When the model, Nina, walks through the space, it sounds like a thousand tiny swords kissing.